The Catfish Chronicles: DMZ: Infiltration Tunnels

Date: 1/3/11

One of the most interesting parts of the DMZ tour was the Infiltration Tunnels. These are tunnels drilled from North Korea, aimed at Seoul, South Korea. South Korea has found 4 such tunnels, but expect there could up anywhere for 10-15 (some say as many as 20) more tunnels undiscovered.

We visited the 3rd Infiltration Tunnel. It was found in 1978 from information provided by a defector of North Korea. It was discovered only 27 miles from Seoul.

The 3rd Tunnel is the one closest to Seoul.

The tunnels can transport around 30,000 men per HOUR with light weaponry.

At the third Tunnel, there is a short film that you watch to tell you a little bit of the history of the tunnels. It is an interesting clip because not only is it about the DMZ tunnels, but it is obviously translated from Korean to English. So you are rearranging clauses in your head so that you can understand what they are meant to be saying. It makes your brain work--but at the end you realize that they didn't really say anything. And they end with the cheesy "Unification is just around the corner" ending line that makes you feel a sad pang of anxiety and sadness. The longer you are in the DMZ you realize that although every single advertisement and monument is about peace and unification, it seems that the two countries have some apparently insurmountable obstacles in their way.

After the video you are hustled out to a short museum. You feel a little bit like a cow because you are being herded. If I had been by myself I think I really would have stopped and read all the notes and wall postings, but we just breezed through it. These are the shots I have of the museum.

These are the weapons used by both sides (I think both sides) back in the 50s.

Exploding devices.

Saekjin (owner of Adventure Korea) is telling us about his military service. All Korean men have two years of military service compulsory and we were asking if all men serve on the DMZ. THe answer: no.

There were a bunch of signs showing different major historical events of the DMZ. This was a common thing to have in all the museums we went to--but it was surprising to me to see the background images.

A picture form the videos that were taken during the Axe Murder Incident. This is considered one of the worst major incidents in the DMZ history and was prominently displayed on all the sights we went to see.

This photo is taken after some North Koreans tried to ambush a Blue House (one of the peace-talk buildings). It is a shocking picture because not only does it display the things the North Korean was carrying, but the North Korean--yeah, he's right there under the blanket on the left. Dead.

Finally, you are taken to the main attraction: the Tunnels. You are not allowed to take pictures of the tunnels, but I have some shots at the entrance of the tunnels. But first, before the goofy shots, let's talk about the tunnels themselves. And what they mean in regards to the Korean peninsula.

The tunnels do tell a bit about North Korea. The tunnels are supposed to be 2 meters high (around 6 ft) but that is may be in one spot--seriously, I think they are rounding up because I'm 5 ft 8 inches and was stooped over. They are supposed to transport 30,000 military men in light armory--these must be short military men. Which tells you about the nutritional level of the better-off-to-do Koreans. Not great!

When the 3rd tunnel was discovered, the United Nations Command basically accused North Korea of breaking the armistice because the tunnel was seen as a "tunnel of aggression." North Korea quickly tried to cover their tails.

First they said that the tunnel could have easily been drilled by the South--don't place blame on them. But you can see where they put the dynamite into the rocks and thus can see that it is clearly blowing holes towards the south--not the other way around.

When the that failed, North Koreans said they were just drilling for coal. Some soldiers actually helped confirm this by painting the walls with coal as they retreated. But, as you walk through the tunnel you are shown (via signs) the different types of rock on the walls. The sediments in the tunnel show no geological likelihood of coal ever being in the area. (Something about the walls being granite, which is a igneous rock, while coal is a sedimentary rock.

Okay, so now enough history--though it does help understand the tunnels.

When you walk down the tunnel, you have to put on a hard hat and start your descent. It is quiet an interesting walk down and you see these people huffing and puffing going the opposite direction. You wonder, why are they panting so hard? It's not that bad...(Just forewarning, you are wrong. Going up is much harder!)

You make it to the bottom and you can actually take a sip of water from the spring. Water is how they found the tunnels. They flooded the area with water and observed where it disappeared and thus, they had a tunnel. They still use this method to try and find new, undiscovered tunnels.

The tunnel is 1.1 miles long and you walk about 3/4 of the way (I think). It is an interesting walk because you are stooped over the whole way. You will conk you head. I turned around too quick after taking a sip of the natural water and bonked my head really hard. I would probably have severally hurt myself it I hadn't worn the hard hat. The hard hats are necessary!

You are directed by signs to see the coal on the walls and the dynamite markers.

About half way through the walk you realize you are under ground, walking in the DMZ, in a tunnel dug by North Koreans in order to reach Seoul by surprise. It's a little creepy. And then you come to the actual DMZ demarkation line that is guarded by barbed wire, videos, and giant concrete blockades. There is a hole in the giant concrete wall that leads to another concrete wall--and on the other side of that wall is North Korea. It's like 50 feet in front of you. You are fifty feet from North Korea, buried 70 feet deep. Wierd.

Then you turn around and make your way back past the coal-painted wall, the yellow highlighted dynamite grooves, and dripping water. You see the train that carries the elderly up and down the tunnel and, as you gaze on the incline that you breezed down, you wish you could take the train up.

On the way down, you noticed the seats on the side of the tunnel and think, "Why are those there?" Then on the way up, you realize, "Shoot...I need to sit down!" I think I walked every direction I could: forwards, backwards, left side first and right side first. It was pretty silly.

When you finally get to the top you realize, "The North Koreans might have a surprise attack, but they would have had a really hard time coming out of a 2 meter by 2 meter hole in the wall without being exhausted!" Because, frankly, look at us!