DMZ: Dorasan Station

Date: 1/3/2011

Dorasan station was the next stop on our trip for the DMZ tour.  To get there, we had to enter into the official DMZ and pass through security.  This was a bit more intense than your normal checking-security-at-the-airport because a South Korean military person came on to the bus and walked up and down the aisle.  While you knew nothing was going to happen, it was a little unnerving because … well, frankly, the people at the airport don't have a rifle strapped to their backs.

Then we went over this bridge into the "official DMZ area."  

The blocks are so that you can't go too fast, it slows you down. 

We make it to Dorasan Station and get a quick history lesson.  Dorasan station is the only station that goes into North Korea.  It carries raw materials to a factory in North Korea and a week later, it picks up the finished products and brings them back.  

We walk into the station and are shown a big picture of the Transiberian Railroad.  It is a sad thing that the Korean peninsula cannot be joined onto this massive transit line due to political problems.  

We go up to the counter where you can get a stamp in your passport.  It was interesting to see the different reactions to the stamps.  Saekjin, the owner of Adventure Korea, was telling us to put the stamp in the last page of our passport.  This way, if anyone had a problem with the stamp, you can just rip out the page.  I don't think he knew that if you rip a page out of our passport, it negates the passport.  The Kiwi guide (Katrina) told us not to puta  stamp in because literally it will stop some countries for allowing you into their country--I think Japan was the example.  The simple fact that you have visited the DMZ/been close to North Korea literally will turn countries off of you.  I find that interesting.  

We purchase a ticket to go onto the train tracks.  Since the train only leaves once a week, it is kinda funny to go play around on the tracks--and play we did!

Behind me, North Korea...

"Not the last station from the South, but the first station toward the North..."

Please notice my elected president attempting to sign the board with the marker --UPSIDE DOWN!  

Then Sarah just got goofy: 

Making snow angels across the tracks leading into North Korea

As we were leaving, we see this giant sculpture/display board with a bunch of apparently Korean names.  Saekjin had pointed out at the beginning saying it was a list of donations.  I'm not sure if it was for donations for the unification village, or building the station, or something else, but he said he had donated.  

Sarah and I test out our korean.  Apparently, it is not very good yet.  We spent 15 minutes looking for the Parks--found them!  But then couldn't find Saek-jin.  We found the S…but yeah…we couldn't find Park Saek Jin.  Saekjin came out after our fruitless search and we desolately tell him that we can't find his name.  He moves down a whole panel and quickly finds his name (in like under 20 seconds).  

OUr response--we must learn more Korean…

DMZ: Infiltration Tunnels

Date: 1/3/11

One of the most interesting parts of the DMZ tour was the Infiltration Tunnels.  These are tunnels drilled from North Korea, aimed at Seoul, South Korea.  South Korea has found 4 such tunnels, but expect there could up anywhere for 10-15 (some say as many as 20) more tunnels undiscovered.

We visited the 3rd Infiltration Tunnel.   It was found in 1978 from information provided by a defector of North Korea.  It was discovered only 27 miles from Seoul.

The 3rd Tunnel is the one closest to Seoul.

The tunnels can transport around 30,000 men per HOUR with light weaponry.

At the third Tunnel, there is a short film that you watch to tell you a little bit of the history of the tunnels. It is an interesting clip because not only is it about the DMZ tunnels, but it is obviously translated from Korean to English.  So you are rearranging clauses in your head so that you can understand what they are meant to be saying.  It makes your brain work--but at the end you realize that they didn't really say anything.  And they end with the cheesy "Unification is just around the corner" ending line that makes you feel a sad pang of anxiety and sadness.  The longer you are in the DMZ you realize that although every single advertisement and monument is about peace and unification, it seems that the two countries have some apparently insurmountable obstacles in their way.

After the video you are hustled out to a short museum.  You feel a little bit like a cow because you are being herded.  If I had been by myself I think I really would have stopped and read all the notes and wall postings, but we just breezed through it.  These are the shots I have of the museum.

These are the weapons used by both sides (I think both sides) back in the 50s. 

Exploding devices.

Saekjin (owner of Adventure Korea) is telling us about his military service.  All Korean men have two years of military service compulsory and we were asking if all men serve on the DMZ.  THe answer: no. 

There were a bunch of signs showing different major historical events of the DMZ.  This was a common thing to have in all the museums we went to--but it was surprising to me to see the background images.  

A picture form the videos that were taken during the Axe Murder Incident.  This is considered one of the worst major incidents in the DMZ history and was prominently displayed on all the sights we went to see.

This photo is taken after some North Koreans tried to ambush a Blue House (one of the peace-talk buildings).  It is a shocking picture because not only does it display the things the North Korean was carrying, but the North Korean--yeah, he's right there under the blanket on the left.  Dead.

Finally, you are taken to the main attraction: the Tunnels.  You are not allowed to take pictures of the tunnels, but I have some shots at the entrance of the tunnels.  But first, before the goofy shots, let's talk about the tunnels themselves.  And what they mean in regards to the Korean peninsula.

The tunnels do tell a bit about North Korea.  The tunnels are supposed to be 2 meters high (around 6 ft) but that is may be in one spot--seriously, I think they are rounding up because I'm 5 ft 8 inches and was stooped over.  They are supposed to transport 30,000 military men in light armory--these must be short military men.  Which tells you about the nutritional level of the better-off-to-do Koreans. Not great!

When the 3rd tunnel was discovered, the United Nations Command basically accused North Korea of breaking the armistice because the tunnel was seen as a "tunnel of aggression."  North Korea quickly tried to cover their tails.

First they said that the tunnel could have easily been drilled by the South--don't place blame on them.  But you can see where they put the dynamite into the rocks and thus can see that it is clearly blowing holes towards the south--not the other way around.

When the that failed, North Koreans said they were just drilling for coal.  Some soldiers actually helped confirm this by painting the walls with coal as they retreated.  But, as you walk through the tunnel you are shown (via signs) the different types of rock on the walls.  The sediments in the tunnel show no geological likelihood of coal ever being in the area. (Something about the walls being granite, which is a igneous rock, while coal is a sedimentary rock.

Okay, so now enough history--though it does help understand the tunnels.

When you walk down the tunnel, you have to put on a hard hat and start your descent.  It is quiet an interesting walk down and you see these people huffing and puffing going the opposite direction. You wonder, why are they panting so hard?  It's not that bad...(Just forewarning, you are wrong.  Going up is much harder!)

You make it to the bottom and you can actually take a sip of water from the spring.  Water is how they found the tunnels.  They flooded the area with water and observed where it disappeared and thus, they had a tunnel.  They still use this method to try and find new, undiscovered tunnels.

The tunnel is 1.1 miles long and you walk about 3/4 of the way (I think).   It is an interesting walk because you are stooped over the whole way.  You will conk you head.  I turned around too quick after taking a sip of the natural water and bonked my head really hard.  I would probably have severally hurt myself it I hadn't worn the hard hat.  The hard hats are necessary!

You are directed by signs to see the coal on the walls and the dynamite markers.

About half way through the walk you realize you are under ground, walking in the DMZ, in a tunnel dug by North Koreans in order to reach Seoul by surprise.  It's a little creepy.  And then you come to the actual DMZ demarkation line that is guarded by barbed wire, videos, and giant concrete blockades.  There is a hole in the giant concrete wall that leads to another concrete wall--and on the other side of that wall is North Korea.  It's like 50 feet in front of you.  You are fifty feet from North Korea, buried 70 feet deep.  Wierd.

Then you turn around and make your way back past the coal-painted wall, the yellow highlighted dynamite grooves, and dripping water.  You see the train that carries the elderly up and down the tunnel and, as you gaze on the incline that you breezed down, you wish you could take the train up.

On the way down, you noticed the seats on the side of the tunnel and think, "Why are those there?"  Then on the way up, you realize, "Shoot...I need to sit down!"  I think I walked every direction I could: forwards, backwards, left side first and right side first.  It was pretty silly.

When you finally get to the top you realize, "The North Koreans might have a surprise attack, but they would have had a really hard time coming out of a 2 meter by 2 meter hole in the wall without being exhausted!"  Because, frankly, look at us!

I made it up!

Freddie and I made it up!

No wonder I'm tired!  I'm dragging both Freddie and Sarah!

Just one more step!  We will make it!

We made it!  We are IN SHAPE!

The DMZ: Joint Security Area

Date: 1/3/11

The DMZ has is the 2.4 mile area between North and South Korea.  It's supposed to be Demilitarized, but it happens to be one of the most--if not the most--heavily militarized areas in the world.  The Joint Security Area is an important location in the DMZ where talks are held, people meet to pray to their ancestors (who are buried on the other side), and people have been released into freedom.

First, a quick look at the Joint Security Area, because these are where many of the early attacks took place. The Joint Security Area (JSA) or Panmunjom, often called the "Truce Village" in both the media and various military accounts, represents the only portion of the Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) where South and North Korean forces stand face-to-face." (1)  There are literally soldiers facing each other at 20 foot intervals.

North Korea

                                                                         South Korea

The Red Line is the Official DMZ demarkation line, and as you see, it goes through a couple buildings.  These are the conference rooms where talks about peace and other such things take place.  These are called the Blue Houses--because they are painted blue.

2001 Panmungak

The building you see in the back is the North Korean Panmungak.  I think it's purpose is an observatory.  A quick quirk about North Korea.  They must appear strong, eh?  In 1998 the South built a bigger observation building.  In response, the North Koreans built that smaller 3rd floor observatory on top of Panmungak.  See? Here is a shot of Punmangak from 1976.



1976 Panmungak

 Here is the South Korean observation Tower, called the Freedom House:

Also in the Joint Security Area is the Bridge of No Return. "It was used for prisoner exchanges at the end of the Korean War in 1953. The name originates from the claim that many POWs captured by the United States did not wish to return home. The prisoners were brought to the bridge and given the choice to remain in the country of their captivity or cross over to the other country. But if they chose to cross the bridge, they would never be allowed to return ... Because of this proximity to North Korean territory, being surrounded on all access routes by North Korean checkpoints, and repeated attempts to kidnap the UNC personnel working there, CP#3 was often referred to as "The Loneliest Outpost in the World". As of 2003, the bridge is considered in need of repair. According to a report on CNN, the US government has offered to fix the bridge or even replace it, but North Korea has denied permission.^{" (2)}

There are security check points on either end of the bridge that house guards.

  I should mention that there are some rules when it comes to taking photographs in certain parts of the DMZ.  For the most part it was okay, but other times we were told not take pictures of bridges, or instance.  Or inside the Tunnels.  For security reasons.  I'm guessing why the photo above (which I took off Wikipedia) doesn't really show much beside the bridge. 

The last time the bridge was used was in December 1968 when the crew of USS Pueblo was released from North Korea and able to walk to freedom.  There were 82 members who were tortured, neglected, and malnutritioned by the KPA after their "electronic surveillance ship was attacked and seized by the DPRK" in January 1968. (3)

There have been many attacks within the Joint Security Area.  Most of them took place in the 1960s and 70s. 

From reading online, it seems like many of the incidents were antagonizations from the North.  Soldiers would come up and hit someone, and then "melee" would insue.  Some attacks were more thought out.  For instance, there was event when North Korean "commandos" disguised as South Korean Soldiers tried to assassinate the South Korean President in the Blue House.

Perhaps one of the bigger incidents was the "Axe Murder Incident" in 1976.  Two UN (two Americans) soldiers were cutting down a popular tree in the Joint Security Area because it obscured visability.  It had been scheduled for previously that week, but due to rain it had been postponed. A North Korean captian demanded what was happening, and when the soldiers ignored the North Korean, he went and sent a runner to the Bridge of No Return to get "back-up" (aka a gang because they had crowbars and clubs).  When the UN soldier again ignored the captain by turning his back, the North Koreans attacked.  Using the axes that had been used to prune the tree, they killed the Americans.  (3) 

This incident was recorded by several cameras from various other outlook posts.  I say this because a few hours later, North Korea released a report saying,

"Around 10:45 a.m. today, the American imperialist aggressors sent in 14 hoodlums with axes into the Joint Security Area to cut the trees on their own accord, although such a work should be mutually consented beforehand. Four persons from our side went to the spot to warn them not to continue the work without our consent. Against our persuasion, they attacked our guards en masse and committed a serious provocative act of beating our men, wielding murderous weapons and depending on the fact that they outnumbered us. Our guards could not but resort to self-defense measures under the circumstances of this reckless provocation."^[7]

Yeah...

This incident is the reason the demarkation line is enforced throughout the entire JSA area.  It should also be noted that, apparently, you can (or could)  see the Axe in the North Korean Peace Musuem (3). 

So, here is the popular tree:

Date: 1978

Two days after the incident, the US and South Koreans did a joint show of force by cutting down the tree, while at the same time trying to not do anything that would make things escalate.  It was called Operation Paul Bunyon.

Then in 1987, the tree was officially cut down and a monument was put in its place.

This incident is the reason the demarkation line is enforced throughout the entire JSA area.  It should also be noted that, apparently, you can see the Axe in the North Korean Peace Musuem. 

1: http://www.newworldencyclopedia.org/entry/Joint_Security_Area
2: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bridge_of_No_Return
3: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Joint_Security_Area

The DMZ: Perceptions

Date: 1/2/11

On the first Sunday of the New Year, Sarah, Freddie and I went to the DMZ.  I specifically did not tell my parents that, Guess what? I'm going to the DMZ this weekend!  I didn't want to scare them silly.  I really didn't know what to expect and went along to see what could be seen.

So, a little history before I start in on our journey.  "In military terms, a demilitarized zone (DMZ) is an area, usually the frontier or boundary between two or more military powers (or alliances), where military activity is not permitted, usually by peace treaty, armistice, or other bilateral or multilateral agreement. Often the demilitarized zone lies upon a line of control and forms a de-facto international border."  The Korean DMZ is located on the 38th Parallel and is 160 miles long and about 2.5 miles wide.  Ironically it is the heaviest militarized zone in the world.

There is a long history of incidents scattered around the DMZ that are worth mentioning.  In November of last year, the island of Yeongpeong was attacked by North Korea.  This is one such incident of the kind of history between the two countries. 

I should point out that most of the information I am relating is decidely one sided, Pro-South Korea.  Which, I admit, is the side I will always agree with side--quiet strongly.  But it is important to note that in countries that support North Korea, like China for instance, there is just as much fear that the South will attack the North.  The Chinese even have tours of the North Korean DMZ, which have halted since the Yeongpeong attack in fear that South Korea will attack the North Koreans. 

You might ask, how in the world could Chinese be afraid of South Koreans--it's the North that has basically started every attack.  Yes and no--depending on which side you favor.  With Yeongpeong, for example, it can be debated.  (Or at least, you can sort of reason and see why something could have happened...if both sides were rational). 

Back in March, the North sank a South Korean ship.  This prompted the South to schedule military drills in the sea of their left, where Yeongpeong and other island are.  Come November, and South is going to go through with the drills.  They say they will take place in the next week--with the aid of the United States Military.  This does not please the North.  They start asking the South to cancel the drills.  The area where the drills are taking place is disputed or not very well defined.  The South claims the land, but the North claims the sea. And since the South is doing naval drills, the North sees it as an infrigement of their rights.  And when the South starts the drills, the North sees it as an attack.  So they shell the island of Yeongpeong. 

Now imagine a country where the government controls all the newpapers.  This scenario can quickly become the South was "invading" the North with the aid of US.  You can see how the Chinese and North Koreans could be fearful of the South.

Okay, that was a long tangent just to explain that perception is everything.  But, that being said, it is still extremely obvious to many people (me) that the North is/was/has been aggressive to the South over the last 60 years.

Grandma's a Super Hero

Date: 1/20/11

Time for some funnies.  

Thanks to GeekTyrant for this link: 91 Year Old Superhero

"A few years ago photographer Sacha Goldberger found his 91-year-old Hungarian grandmother Frederika feeling lonely and depressed.  So to cheer her up, and put a spark back into her life, he turned her into a superhero! He took a series of awesome photographs of her wearing costumes in unusual superhero type posses. "Grandma reluctantly agreed, but once they got rolling, she couldn't stop smiling."

"Frederika isn't only a superhero in these photos, but she was a real hero during World War II. Here's her story...

Frederika was born in Budapest 20 years before World War II. During the war, at the peril of her own life, she courageously saved the lives of ten people. When asked how, Goldberger told us "she hid the Jewish people she knew, moving them around to different places everyday." As a survivor of Nazism and Communism, she then immigrated away from Hungary to France, forced by the Communist regime to leave her homeland illegally or face death.

Aside from great strength, Frederika has an incredible sense of humor, one that defies time and misfortune. She is funny and cynical, always mocking the people that she loves.

These photos are great, and they definitely put a smile on my face. If you're having a hard day, these are sure to make your day a little better. I hope you enjoy the photo collection below!"

To visit the whole collections of photos, go here: http://geektyrant.com/news/2010/11/18/photographer-turns-his-91-year-old-grandma-into-a-superhero.html

New Years Day: 2 PM

Date 1/1/11

The Seoul CountDown was an amazing event with a lot of singers.  It was neat to see some groups feed into each other. 

But without a doubt, the biggest group of the night was 2PM.  When we purchased the tickets, we really didn't look at the list of artists.  But it did say "Super Big Guest Artist."  We still figured that we wouldn't know the group.

But, low and behold, we get the program and look at it and go, "Holy Crap!  2PM!  I know who 2PM is!"  In fact, when I did my first KPop post, they were one of the groups I used.  But, just in case you have no idea who I am talking about, here's a quick run through of 2PM (thanks to Wikipedia.)

Originally part of a 11 member boy band, they split back in before 2008 to create two groups: 2PM and 2AM.  2PM was originally a 7 member group, but do some to bad translation, the oldest member removed himself from the group.  Interestingly, they have more a "mature pretty boy" image.  They are known for their acrobatic dancing. 

They're most famous songs are:

• Again and Again
• I Hate You
• HeartBeat
• Without You
• I'll Be Back

I actually know some of the lyrics to Heartbeat and Again & Again.  (Granted, most of the lyrics i know are the random English words thrown into the Korean, but I definitely know the tunes and such!)

When we saw that 2PM was playing, we were super excited. 

We move into the crowd about 30 minutes before 2Pm is supposed to come on (which, ironically, was 2AM).  But the crowd really liked the DJ and I think the producers had him play longer.  So, it was more like 50 minutes before 2Pm came on. 

I was bouncing up and down next to a Korean and his waygook friend.  I pointed to the stage and said, "When's 2PM coming on?"  The waygook smiled and pointed to his equally bouncy Korean friend and said, "I know!  He really loves 2PM and can't wait!"  The Friend's eyes got huge and he frantically tried to regain his cool image, "No!  I love Girls Generation!"  (Which doesn't really inspire much more confidence...).  I yelled back, "Me Too!  I love Girls Generation and 2PM!"  We yelled back and forth a little bit, extrapolating about the virtues of Kpop sensations. 

At this point the waygook friend started shoving his friend to go up closer to the stage.  I didn't really think that was going to be possible, we already were pretty tight.  I was wrong.  When the stage flushed black, it was like a swirming vortex blackhole that sucked people up to the front of the stage.  The Korean friend grabbed my hand and, with his pushing, and the swirling vaccum that was the 2PM excitement, I found myself 1/2 the distance to the stage--bairly 20 ft away. 

I whipped out my camera, and I wasn't the ony one.  I love this next shot because it was just a 'point and click" (basically all my pictures were point and clicks so I was super happily surprised when they turned out great).  But it is great!  I love all the cameras, the stage, the dancing came out halfway clear, and its just a great shot for hte feel of the night.

The first number was fun. I honestly don't even remember the song order, but I know they sang Heartbeat, Again & Again (the two I know! YEAH!)

It was interesting because in the concerts I remember back from home, the singers didn't do a lot of talking.  But it was much different.  Between each number, the boys would stop and talk to the audience. 

This was a great time to get shots because they weren't like crazy jack rabbits hopping and givving all over the stage.

They are introducing themselves here.  You can tell who are the popular guys by the sheer ear-popping screams by the female ladies in the audience.  I have once heard someone say they have never heard the RCA dome get as loud as it did during the NSYNC concert--and I think the officials would say the same about this Times Square Mall. 

They are all quiet cute.  

 Now time for some dance moves. 

Oh yeah, I'm cool...Shoulder frisk.

Get ready...

BAM!  Human pryamid!

 This next seqeunce is from their song HeartBeat.   I konw this because i have seen the music video.  I was actually really surprised how the dancing really is the exact copy from the music videos. 

I also was pretty awed by their formations.  There were a lot of triangles, Vs, and other shapes that emphasized their group number.

Love

 Going to Egypt...

 The end of HeartBeat.  They basically stand around the one guy and pump their chests like an overexagerated HeartBeat.  It made me laugh.

I think my favorite 2PM guy is the 2nd from the left--because he is wearing an English Bulldog on his shirt.  Shout out to LUCY!

 Okay, they are getting hot and sweaty now.  That was funny to see.  But I image those jackets get really hot. 

I took a couple videos also, but I need to wait until I'm at my own computer to upload those--not the school computer.  So...come back tomorrow and see some videos!  Until then, I will leave you with some videos from Youtube!

HeartBeat

Again & Again

This is a live version--and besides the breakout beatbox in the middle--this is almost exactly what we saw.  (Except, we had 6 members, not 7).